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A View from the South - Yala and Betong


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Getting there.

 

Unfortunately, it's a car or nothing, so it was a trip to the Land Transport Department to get a new English transcript of my vehicle registration. That would be needed at the Malaysian/Thai border to obtain the additional insurance and transit permit from the Malaysian Transport people.

 

I decided to stay overnight in Danok on the Thai side of the main north/south border and travel to Betong the following day.

 

The following morning getting through Thai immigration was a breeze and I was soon on my way over the border and the welcome sight of signs written in English.

 

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What should have been a quick stop at the Malaysian Transport office ended up as a 40 minute stop as the guy decided that this time my Romanised Licence sticker didn't conform to the regulations. Not a big problem and I soon had my transport permit and was on my way.

 

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The roads in Malaysia are a pleasure to drive on and when I cut off the north-south highway to head east to Betong, I could see why my biker mate made such a big deal about the trip.

 

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In what seemed like no time at all, I arrived at the almost deserted immigration post – not too many tourists pass through, and very few farangs, it appeared.

 

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The Thai side of the border, like almost every land crossing, seemed to suffer from a significant amount of neglect compared to the Malaysian side. That said, the staff were extremely helpful and actually seemed pleased to see a farang.

 

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Betong Town

 

It was only a quick 10km run into Betong and my hotel, being the only building of any significant size, was easy to spot and navigate a route to. The hotel is called the Grand Mandarin and the name should have given me some clues as to the make-up of the town.

 

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My room cost 1,300 Baht a night including free internet and a couple of breakfasts which I thought was reasonable and the view from the room towards the surrounding mountains was excellent.

 

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The main activity in the town is really limited to a half dozen or so side-streets leading off the main road which has a clock tower as its central point.

 

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There are a couple of other landmarks in the town that are probably worth a mention. Firstly, what is reputed to be Thailand's only road tunnel. How true that is, I have no idea, but that's what the locals claimed so I wasn't going to argue the point.

 

 

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The second landmark of note is apparently the world's tallest post box. Quite why someone decided to build a giant post box is anybody's guess, but it's still functioning and you can still post a letter.

 

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Surprisingly, the population, unlike the remainder of Yala, is predominantly (Hokkien) Chinese, as are the vast majority of businesses in the town and the diverse Thai, Malay and Chinese influences of the population is reflected in the design of the city's gate.

 

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Of the other sights around town, there is the obligatory mosque …

 

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… the famous "Jacky Chan" hotel …,

 

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… the, not so famous, Woody Salon … ,

 

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… and the obligatory gold shop with a Harley parked in the foyer.

 

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Piyamit Tunnels

 

Stuck up high in the mountains, about 20-odd kms from the town are the Piyamit tunnels. These were home to Malayan communists during the 70s and when they gave up their fight they stayed on in Thailand rather than return to Malaya and settled in five villages in the south of Thailand called Ban Piyamit 1-5, or Friendship Villages 1-5. Not only have they stayed on but they've also successfully turned their former bases into tourist attractions.

 

An early start and I was on my way and as I approached the village a reminder of the inevitable …

 

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… but first a stop at some hot springs to sample some fresh boiled eggs …

 

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… then a drive into the mountains proper …

 

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then, finally, we reach the entrance gate to the village …

 

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… and a spot to take in the view back down the valley and appreciate some of the Chinese workmanship.

 

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Like everywhere else in the village, the entrance to the tunnel complex is obviously well-maintained unlike some other "tourist spots" that I've been to in Thailand.

 

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After a fair hike through the jungle, we stumble upon the entrance to the tunnels and accompanying displays, museum etc.

 

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Edited by CheshireTom
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On the way back to my truck, I came across what I assume must be Thailand's answer to the Pontiac Vibe.

 

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Food

 

The hotel I was staying in had a decent enough buffet breakfast which also provided the opportunity to cast an eye over the talent finishing their overnight shift.

The town has loads of Thai/Chinese/Malay/Indian restaurants but I opted to take my main meals at a place a couple of minutes from my hotel. Huge helpings (too much for me) and fairly reasonably priced for the quality of the scoff they offered.

 

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I think that the total for this spread was around 230 Baht, or thereabouts.

 

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Unlike many Thai provincial towns where the wet market is a bit of a nightmare, the one in Betong, like the rest of the town, was pretty laid back and well organised.

 

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On the way home, I made a big mistake and decided to drive through Yala and Pattani to Songkhla. The drive from Yala to Songkhla was pretty good but the 140 kms from Betong to Yala was a bit of a nightmare drive. Some nice scenery that would compare with anything back home but you took your life in your own hands if you let it distract you too much.

 

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Edited by CheshireTom
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Another great travelogue CT - excellent and very informative stuff (as usual). Like my mother would say "it saves me having to go" :thumbup

 

One question, one comment.

 

What's the top script on the Chinese gate (above the half/half Thai/Chinese panel)?

 

I reckon that "food container" looks like a "used food container".

 

Thanks

 

Andy

 

P.S. Sounds like nipping into Malaysia was a good move based on the last 140km - once again, nobody about in your pics......??

Edited by capdagde
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Another great travelogue CT - excellent and very informative stuff (as usual). Like my mother would say "it saves me having to go" :thumbup

 

One question, one comment.

 

What's the top script on the Chinese gate (above the half/half Thai/Chinese panel)?

 

 

Andy,

 

It's Thai script - just a pointy font.

 

 

P.S. Sounds like nipping into Malaysia was a good move based on the last 140km -

 

I believe they've built a bridge over part of the reservoir which takes out the worst 15 km of the trip - it was a bit dodgy as the darkness set in.

 

once again, nobody about in your pics......??

 

I never noticed at the time but it's fair to say that folk tend to appear on the streets from around 5 p.m. onwards. Not too different from the Arab countries really. I'll do the uni sports day for you next. :thumbup

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