Oh to be in Laos

[teelack]

Oh to be in Laos (But only once in a lifetime!)

 

SORRY IN ADVANCE. MY PHOTOS SEEMS TO HAVE BEEN SCRAMBLED AND i HAVE NO IDEA HOW TO EDIT THEM. I HOPE THAT YOU WILL STILL ENJOY TO TRIP REPORT.

 

I am running atleast a year late for this trip report but at long last have decided to give it a go.

 

Laos is not everyone’s cup of tea and I would suggest that other than those doing a visa run this will ideally suit those travellers that are simply curious and are looking for new places and experiences. This is not to say that there isn’t some of the traditional mongering and drinking things to look forward to but make no mistake, its not Thailand and has even a great deal less than Cambodia.

 

On a personal basis I am pleased that I did go for the change of pace and scenery and for some rather unforgettable experiences.

 

Here is a suggestion. Lets assume that you want to make a visit and combine both the sites and sounds and also some nightlife. I suggest that 6 nights or so would do it. Either 3 each in LP and Vientiane or if you want to bus internally take a night or two out in Vang Vieng. I would try to have the weekend in Vientiane as I am sure that you will find more nightlife there than anywhere else. Perhaps arrive on Friday and depart on Monday.

 

A WARNING. I am led to believe in my reading of Lao web sites that there is a law in place that actually makes it a crime for a Lao citizen to have a sexual relationship with a non-Lao. I have seen this in writing however I am also aware that few take notice of it. Having said that, I am also sure that it will be the basis of a scam sometime, somewhere. I did copy the following from a web source:

 

In Laos it is officially against the law for an unmarried or even previously married Lao woman to have sex or sleep under the same roof as a man who is not her husband or close family member. While this is usually overlooked for casual liaisons in city hotels and guest houses, it is quite strictly adhered to elsewhere. Longer term residents (more than tourists) need to be aware of this; aggrieved families can cause problems or expect marriage or financial compensation for the 'de-flowering' of a daughter. Local officials will take action if requested. On the other hand, males sharing rented rooms for economical or 'other' reasons is common and quite acceptable. What goes on discreetly behind closed doors is of little interest to anyone.

 

 

All purpose Internet site.

 

There are a number of good Internet sites but perhaps this all-purpose one will help you with almost all aspects of a planned tour. It has a bit of info about most things however you might like to dig a bit deeper when it comes to nightlife!

 

http://www.laos-travel-guide.com/laos-visa.html

 

Getting There:

 

The major ways of getting to Laos from Pattaya or Bangkok are as follows:

 

 

• There is a bus service through Issan that will get you eventually to Nong Khai, the border crossing.
  
• There is a rail service from Bangkok to Nong Khai.
  
• Take a plane to Udon Thani and then bus to Nong Khai
  
• Get a Discovery Pass and fly most of the way.
  
• There are some intrepid travellers that also take slow boats down the Mekong.
  

 

The Discovery Pass:

 

This is a method for buying your travel before you leave home. It is an initiative between Bangkok Air and Lao Air. There are also some weird flights on a smaller line between Samui and KL. There are quite a number of international and local destinations so you could add Cambodia if you want. The minimum is three legs and the maximum is six. See the following for all the details on costs and destinations.

 

http://www.bangkokair.com/en/plan-your-trip/discovery-airpass/routing.php

 

My choice was to fly from Bangkok to Luang Prabang (LP), Luang Prabang to Vientiane and then Vientiane to Bangkok. This is the quick and easy route but if I have had more time I would have varied this by bringing in Cambodia and instead of flying from LP to Vientiane I would have gone by bus and spent a night or two in Vang Vieng which is about 5 hours from both places and is in the middle of the country.

 

Lao Airlines is similar to just about any other third world airline with one exception. I had a flight that left Bangkok about 11.30AM. It’s a great flight in that its over land all the way and has some spectacular views of the Mekong once you are in Laos. What made it different was the amount of booze they served. My wine glass was never empty even to the stage of saying “no more please.”

 

There is one Internet site that I would recommend for rail links and travel advice for the area. Have a look at this if train travel in Thailand is of interest to you. There is also a lot of general information that could assist in planning a trip.

 

http://www.seat61.com/Laos.htm

 

The Currency:

 

The local currency is The Lao Kip. The exchange rate is in the area of 7900 to 8000 Kip to the $US. Unlike Cambodia it is really necessary to exchange into the Kip as the local seem to expect it and it will save you being ripped off on rounding up to the nearest dollar. Like the Cambodian Rial however it seems almost impossible to trade outside of Laos so just buy what you need. Needless to say the $US can be used and I also noticed in Vientiane a lot of prices were in Thai Baht.

 

Accommodation:

 

Like anywhere else there is top of the line accommodation available in Laos. I had a budget and had no problems using Agoda for this. What I did do was to check local maps and park myself handy to the centre of the places that I stayed at. In LP I chose a place on the banks for the Mekong and this turned out well. The prices of hotel rooms are similar to Pattaya but don’t expect as much for your money. I didn’t get an in-room safe and in fact had to put my valuables in the hotel safe. You might like to consider taking a small safe box for your passport and money. The one thing that I did find was an absolute effort to try their very best. Whilst they do not have the experience of the Thais in running accommodation they are so willing that errors with service and food were easy to forgive.

 

 

On Arrival:

 

 

You will need a visa on arrival and it the cheapest and easiest way to get one. The cost is in the area of $US 20.00 but all the information that you need can be found on the Internet site. Don’t forget a couple of passport photos and remember (and this applies to Cambodia as well) IF YOUR PASSPORT HAS LESS THAN 6 MONTHS TO RUN YOU WILL MOST LIKELY BE TURNED AWAY. For more details see the Internet site mentioned at the start of the report.

Needless to say there is a taxi mafia as well however some hotels will pick you up however expect to pay about $5.00 into town. The first thing that you notice is left hand drive, which is a real change.

 

Luang Prebang:

 

 

LP is a World heritage site, which in general terms mean’s that they look to preserve the architecture and the style of the place. As you meander down the main street or walk down the riversides it’s a bit difficult to see the charm of the place. You have to get off the main streets and look at the French Colonial architecture to get into this place. These wonderful old villas are built next door to wonderful pagodas and the place is a peaceful and sleepy hollow.

In the late afternoon the street market sets up. This is a on the main street and is flanked by other markets running off the side streets. In these you will find the backpackers getting one hell of a feed for around $US1.00 or $2.00 or so. Its just a large barbecue and is super value for money. The night market is also of interest and has the normal things in addition to the famous Lao Snake whiskey. The other thing of note was wonderful and dirt-cheap silver. It makes for great gifts and whilst I know nothing about silver everyone that I gave it to seemed pleased with it.

There is supposedly some nightlife in town but I never found it. Eating out can be fun in that there are some reasonable restaurants however I didn’t think the food so good. I ended up joining the crowds at some of the main street pubs and eating pizza and guzzling Beer Lao out doors. Everything is so cheap that it’s not worth going into details.

Before I even ventured onto the main street in the evenings the place to go is down by the river. This is a quite an adventure in some places. During the day the restaurant sites are unused but as the evening starts the locals cross the road and set up tables. Some of these places are quite difficult to get to as they hang off the side of the riverbanks. I took a book and watched the sun go down with large bottles of Beer Lao at about a dollar a pop. It was a joy.

Walking down the river I came across a bunch of old guys. This was the local elders and they were just like a group of senior citizens anywhere in the world. Whereas in other countries these guys would have been swilling beer or wine, in Laos it’s all about Snake Whiskey. They set up large carboys of the stuff and siphon it out into glasses. I asked if I could photograph the stuff. “ Sit down and join us” they said but I just didn’t have the courage and when you see the photos you will possibly sympathise with me.

 

Outside of LP:

 

I have to say that you really need to plan for something to do during the day. There really is a limit. Whilst there are plenty of wat’s to visit as well as museums only so much culture is possible. There is a wonderful look out in the centre of LP. The steps to the temples of Phu Si (or as some have it Phussi) are right there in the main street. It’s a 100-metre climb but feels more. The reward is some wonderful views that go for miles.

Getting back to outside of town. The main trip is to the Pak Ou caves some 25 kilometres up the Mekong River. This trip worthwhile on a number of levels. First there is the river and the general scenery. Besides the caves, an add-on is usually a trip to one of the villages. A not to be missed place is a Whiskey Village so make sure that this is part of the trip.

As I understand it the caves go back many centuries and is where the locals took their broken or retired Buddha statuary for retirement. It’s difficult to get to and is I believe only accessible from the river. You climb up the cliff side and can explore two sets of caves. It’s different and when you understand the purpose and history, quite humbling.

 

A relatively short distance from the caves is the Whiskey Village. The day I visited was after a heavy downpour and the steep hillside was getting washed away. It was a hell of a job getting up there and we all ended up with the red soil clinging to us. Then there is a brief tramp though some real jungle. Because of the rain there seemed to be millions of worms coning though the surface of the paths.

The villages here are ancient, perhaps over 2000 years old. The two main occupations are jar making and whiskey production. The whiskey is stored in the jars so this is complementary manufacturing.

I rather think that the production methods resemble that of the stills in the backwoods of the USA during prohibition. There are large stills, which distil rice wine into the local hooch. Everything seems homemade and there is no sophistication to the manufacturing process. The guys tending the still keep pushing trees into the fire and the distilled product runs into jars; end of story.

The end product is sold in different strengths and some is bottled with a snake or scorpion and you have to wonder just where they manage to find such a range and quantity of these vipers.

Another side industry is the manufacture of medicine. They make this by stewing bear claws, snakes and scorpions in whiskey. This was perhaps the most distressing part of the process.

 

Summary:

 

I enjoyed the entire trip to LP. I would even like to go again but perhaps in the summer season rather than in the wet. It’s a lovely place but there is little nightlife and you have to

see the place as time out rather than a part of a monger’s tour. It’s great to be able to walk everywhere and never need transport.

 

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b]Vientiane:[/b]

 

Whereas LP has little to do at night, Vientiane has a great deal more but…! Once again this not a hot spot of nightlife however there are clubs, pubs and places to go. I had a lot of fun and there are freelancers in the pubs and clubs.

 

The place that suited me best was the riverside. It has some good bars and restaurants and one in particular became my evening starter. This is the Bor Pennyang. It’s a barn of a place on the 4th floor. It has great views over the Mekong, serves bar food and has freelancers. If there is more than one of you the way to drink ale is to get a dispenser on the table. This is the beer tower with an ice chamber in the centre.

Unlike Pattaya and Bangkok this place changes a bit quickly and I do suggest that you do your homework on the nightlife before you travel. I have come across one web site with some good information that I would pass on.

 

http://www.bigmangobar.com/blog/reader-submissions/2009/12/10/some-more-on-vientiane-night-life-by-salty/

 

I have had great times at the Novotel and the Mekong but I still think it wise to do an online check before you travel.

 

A final point. I was strolling down the riverside looking at the bars and restaurants and as is usual there is an outdoor market of sorts with a range of stalls. In what seemed like a few seconds the entire market started packing up and it was weird to see this sudden burst of activity. I suddenly guessed the cause and shot off to the nearest bar where there was life. A crash of thunder and a monsoon downpour lasting 10 minutes or so showed me that these folk were very attuned to their environment and they were out the weather with seconds to spare. Local knowledge is a great thing!

 

Daytime things to do:

 

I am sure that there is a lot to do but to be honest I never found it. I did some really cheap drinking (4 large bottles of Lao at my hotel lounge for less than $US4.00) and some great local food in smaller restaurants for around $US2.00. Other than that, here is what I got up to:

 

The local market. There is a large day market in the city. Whatever you want you will find. Possibly the best place to buy cheap smokes and metal work such as Buddha’s and local jewellery.

 

Putaxai. What can you say about this place? Seems that in the 1960’s the USA donated more cement than Laos could ever use in a number of lifetimes. Remembering that Laos took more bombs than any other place on earth at that time. They decided to build their version of the Arc de Triumph and so was constructed Putaxai. It’s a gentle stroll up a wide boulevard from the market. As you get nearer the place gets rougher on the eye. For a few cents you get to meander around the place and take photos. Its well sighted for views of Vientiane but will never make it into Must Places To See.

 

Buddha Park. If Putaxi is weird then this place is more so. Once again the glut of cement in the area let to the construction of this park in the late 1950’s. Whilst it is an achievement the reality is that after 50 of years the concrete sculpture are getting tatty and need some restoration. This place is about 25 kilometres out of town and the cost for a tuk tuk return is in the area of $US10.00. It’s worth a trip out but prepare to be under whelmed.

 

There is not a great deal more to say. This is in MHO a worthwhile 5/6-day trip and I certainly didn’t regret it. I enjoyed the nightlife to a degree, the food to a degree; in fact it was all-good…to a degree. The people were delightful and some of the sights were unforgettable but you need to approach Laos in right frame of mind. This will not blow your socks off nor will the monuments thrill you but the overall experience is a good one and one that I am pleased that I sampled.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited October 30, 2011 by teelack

[Bear194]

Great report Teelak...thanks for all the info.

[wombat51]

Terrific trip report with some very interesting photos.

Many thanks for taking the time.

[rubinjames]

Thanksnfor the photos

 

brings back memories of my first visit to laos.

[alias]

I feel guilty getting all this for free.

 

Thanks!

[Montydog]

Terrific report excellent info and photos, thanks very much.

 

Just a quick question , these freelancers if a lonely tourist did want to take one back to his hotel to discuss local culture and customs how much of a fee would we be looking at?

[teelack]

Terrific report excellent info and photos, thanks very much.

 

Just a quick question , these freelancers if a lonely tourist did want to take one back to his hotel to discuss local culture and customs how much of a fee would we be looking at?

 

Hi there Monty. The figure mentioned for an all nighter was 1500 baht but I didnt bother bargaining and suspect a 1000 would do the trick.

[snoop-dawg]

Nice insight to Laos! :]

[Bazle]

Well written and useful report. Thanks.

 

May I ask how you got on language-wise - were there any problems? Was English widely understood?

[VicVegas]

Great report.

 

I have been to Vientiane several times and always enjoy it. As you say it must be approached with a different mindset from the normal monger traveling in LOS.

 

Lots of great bars and restaurants in Vientiane. One of my favorites you didn't mention: Khop Chai Deu, which is one of the coolest bar/restaurants I've been to anywhere.

 

Thanks for the report and pics.

[nus01]

,great report

[joekicker]

"We serve what you have expected for". Heck, that sign alone was worth waiting a year.

 

Really nice report, thanks a lot for the BIG trouble it takes to post this kind of thing plus the pics.

 

.

[teelack]

Well written and useful report. Thanks.

 

May I ask how you got on language-wise - were there any problems? Was English widely understood?

 

Hi there Bazle. I seem to get by with English supplemented by some Thai (which has a lot in common) and some French remembering that both Laos and Cambodia spoke French some years back and there is still some around. I have to also admit that I am not an out of the way traveller as I suspect that get 30K out of town and there would be only Lao.

[teelack]

Great report.

 

I have been to Vientiane several times and always enjoy it. As you say it must be approached with a different mindset from the normal monger traveling in LOS.

 

 

Aint that the truth! I took a lady to a Saturday dance at the Mekong Hotel. This features a live band and dancing however the crowd is made up of families as well as singles and they were having a great time. I really enjoyed the experience and was up dancing Lao dances. At the other extreme were bars catering to backpackers and oh dear some of the German and Scandinavians were heart breakers.

[danboy]

Awesome report and pics

[dtyolmn]

Great TR and I really enjoyed your pictures. Thanks for taking the time to post.

[BigusDicus]

A very nice report. Excellent pictures.

 

Thank you very much.

[sailingbill]

Another great "Oh to be .. " report. Thanks

When are you off to Myanmar?

[teelack]

Another great "Oh to be .. " report. Thanks

When are you off to Myanmar?

 

Thanks Bill. I have thought of Myanamar and I think that it is getting more tourist friendly now so perhaps...

 

I have a couple of "Oh to be"...left in me before that.

 

Regards

[Bushcraft]

Marvellous report Jim, thanks very much for taking the trouble.

[Gary]

A great report and interesting pictures. I interpret from the text that the best part about the trip is that you can say, been there and done that.

[captcraig2]

Wow....Where was all the traffic?.....Guess I'm used to Bangkok. Been a great morning read with my coffee....Thanks!

[satyr]

Thanks for taking the time to report. Nice pictures too.

[Guest Belem]

The early morning in Luang Prabang when all of the monks are walking through town with people giving them food offerings is a site to behold. Many tourists taking pictures, and it is the big event of the day.

Edited October 31, 2011 by Belem

[teelack]

I interpret from the text that the best part about the trip is that you can say, been there and done that.

 

 

Gary. Thanks for the comments. I think that there is an element of what you say is correct however only in part. Seems that you read the TR as it was supposed to be read.

 

I am a strong believer that travel is a very personal and emotional experience. You recall the old adverts used to say, "Half the fun is getting there" but I assume for most on this board its a chore to be put up with.

 

I have some phobias such as hights and snakes hence for me searching out high points and snakes so that I can confront these fears is a big part of any trip.

 

The emotional element of travel for me is how I feel about it say 12 months later. Did I connect with the culture, history, people and what was on offer?

As for Laos, yes I did connect. For instance I recently travelled Singapore and Malaysia but won't be doing a trip report because I didnt connect.

 

Finally, I enjoyed doing the write up and re-looking through the photos so I guess that on this specific trip it was 85% positive and 15% "Been there and done that!"